Pilgrims at St. Paul's

This past week, we had class on site at St. Paul's outside the Walls. I blogged pretty extensively about that experience with the class last fall, and the experience was quite similar. In that piece, I emphasized how powerful it is for me to read and discuss the words of St. Paul at the site of his burial. Still true. But in today's post, I want to emphasize something else about this space, something that I also try to demonstrate to the students.

One of the amazing things about a site like St. Paul's Basilica is that it marks a spot that Christians have venerated since the death of Paul almost 2000 years ago. It started as a simple grave. Eventually a monument was built, then a chapel, then a basilica, and then a larger basilica. But the space that is St. Paul's marks a space that pilgrims have visited for centuries, yearning to be near this man who poured out his life--in both ink and blood--to spread the Gospel.

Like the other papal basilicas, St. Paul's received a new "Holy Door" for the jubilee year in 2000. This is the door through which pilgrims may enter to receive the indulgence associated with making a pilgrimage to the church during the Jubilee Year. Pictured here, perhaps you can see that the scenes pictured are biblical, historical, and contemporary. The artwork of the door ties together one God acting in very different times.

Standing before this door, however, it is easy to imagine it open for the pilgrims in 2000, or in Holy Years before that. And if you spend much time at this basilica, it is not long before a tour bus pulls up and about 40 pilgrims emerge, spend a little time exploring and praying, and are back on the bus and gone before you know it. Another soon takes their place.

Since Paul was buried in this space, I wonder how many people have come and said a prayer over his bones. I wonder how many pilgrims have come here, seeking to be strengthened in their trials and sufferings, to ask for Paul's help in fighting the good fight, running the good race, trying to be all things to all people. I hope that my students get a sense of that history--that this place is significant not simply because Paul was buried here but because thousands upon thousands of pilgrims have trekked here to pray, to watch, to hope.

Popolo Quiz

Before our class at Santa Maria del Popolo, I gave a little quiz, just to make sure that we're all keeping some studying in our semester studying abroad. If you have to take a quiz, what better place than the Piazza del Popolo? And, of course, there are plenty of people around, including the two Italian young men sitting in back, who were very grateful that they didn't have to take the quiz but still wanted to be in the picture.

Back to Santa Maria del Popolo

We have finally made up all the snow days, juggled a few site visits and combined a few lectures, and we're back to normal. Class this week was on the book of Acts and we visited Santa Maria del Popolo. Last semester, I blogged about the art and the class. This time around, I'll point out something different. There is something that is true of just about every church in Rome, but Santa Maria del Popolo illustrates it in a particular way. These churches have stood for centuries in this crossroads of the world, and they carry that history in some interesting ways.

One of the fun little facts to know about Santa Maria del Popolo is that it was run by Augustinian monks for centuries. And so, when a young German Augustinian named Martin Luther traveled to Rome in 1511, it was natural that he stayed with his brethren right here at Santa Maria del Popolo. And, of course, it is no accident that, eighty years after Martin Luther nailed his 95 theses to the door of the church in Wittenburg, Caravaggio was being asked to fill this space with imagery of Peter and of Paul. Such art serves as a reminder both of the scriptural roots and authority of these two men, and--especially The Crucifixion of Peter--as a reminder that they both met martyrs' fates in the city of Rome. The century following Luther's visit to Rome saw not only the flourishing of art like Caravaggio's but also the renewal of interest in the catacombs surrounding Rome and devotion to the martyrs throughout the area. These stories are the stories of the church, formed and nourished by the scriptures, but also real stories of faith on their own. The city of Rome is a space on which these stories are written, in architecture, art, and tombs--in all the relics of the people who lived here, and even some who only passed through.

Snow Day in Rome

Since snow in Rome is rare, and the city isn't really prepared to deal with it, classes all across Rome were cancelled today. It was pretty nasty out there, but I took a walk up to Piazza del Popolo to check things out. Above is a picture of the piazza in the snow. You should be able to see a few more pictures if you follow this link.

Adapting to Challenges

On Tuesday night, all the students, faculty and staff at the Global Campus here in Rome were invited to join our Academic Dean, Kevin Murphy, for a roundtable conversation about cross-cultural exchange.

One of the things that the conversation emphasized was that, when you are in a cultural situation that is new to you, you have a real opportunity to reflect upon whether the differences are cultural ones (or whether something else is going on) and also how you will react and adapt to these differences.

Something that is a universal: no matter where you live, sometimes things don't go exactly as planned. But, when you are living and teaching abroad, it is easy to blame the chaos on cultural differences. My class on Monday did not go as planned, because a scheduling mix-up meant we could not go to the Capitoline Museums as planned. Class tomorrow has now been cancelled due to inclement weather, and we've just learned that there will be a transportation strike on Monday, which will complicate our intended site visit then.

All this is quite frustrating, but snow days and scheduling problems happen in the U.S., too. One of the great things about the situation here, though, is that, although I'm sure the students share my frustration, they have been really enthusiastic. I gave them a choice between just skipping that site visit or adding a class session during their free time so that we could get it in. They chose (unanimously and without hesitation) to plan a time for the visit. That sort of enthusiasm is a great reminder of what a great opportunity for learning this sort of experience offers.

Return to San Clemente

Yesterday, my class made its first site visit of the semester. We went to the Basilica of San Clemente, which some readers might remember from my posting last semester.

We also had an added advantage this time around, as Fr. Terence Crotty, O.P., a member of the Irish Dominican community at San Clemente, volunteered to show us around the place. San Clemente is a near-perfect start to my class, because it allows me to introduce my students to many of the key ideas that we will be considering all semester.

First, it really shows off the archeological layers of Rome. The upper church (the "current" basilica) dates to the 12th century, but it was built on top of a (now excavated and accessible) 4th century church. That layer, in turn, was built above 1st century buildings. So, students can see what archeologists know: the deeper you dig, the further back in time you go.

Second, San Clemente carries the stories (and the remains and/or artwork) of many saints and martyrs, and so displays the living tradition over time. San Clemente lays claim to housing the remains not only of its namesake, St. Clement, but also those of St. Ignatius of Antioch (click that link just to check out the great icon of the saint!) and St. Cyril. Also, a lesser known saint, Servulus (d. 590), a paralytic beggar who was often in the courtyard of San Clemente, was buried here and celebrated in some of the art here. (Unfortunately, his fresco was covered up by scaffolding in place for some restoration.) Also, there is a lovely chapel dedicated to St. Catherine of Alexandria, though (if legend can be believed) her remains are near Mt. Sinai, not in Rome.

Third, can anyone say enough about San Clemente's wonderful Tree of Life mosaic? Unfortunately, they request that no photos be taken inside, so take a look here for some photos (and reflections). This incredible mosaic features Christ at the center on the Cross, but two things are happening at the foot of the cross. First, the four rivers of paradise flow from it. Second, a tree grows from its base. The tree's branches grow in scroll-like vines that fill the whole apse. The whole scene teems with life. The suffering and death of Christ on the Cross brings life to all the world. A very appropriate image to begin our study of the New Testament in the Eternal City.

Fourth, (and this was brand new to me--thanks, Fr. Crotty!) we got to see the 6th century baptistry that is in an area that is usually sealed off. These ancient baptistries are more than big enough for an adult to wade in and be dunked in a full immersion baptism. Those of us who are used to baptisms being about a little sprinkle-sprinkle-sprinkle on a cute baby are challenged to picture something entirely different. Baptism is about dying to one's old self, one's old allegiances, the claims that worldly powers had, and rising to a new life in Christ. Study of the New Testament and these early days of the Church really demand that the seriousness of such a commitment be considered. Baptism was not for the feint of heart; baptism was not something you did because everyone was doing it; it was something you did if and only if the truth of the Gospel compelled you. That is something I intend to help my students consider again and again as the semester progresses.

So, we're off to a great start!

... And we're back!

Today is the first day of classes here at the Global Campus in Rome. I'll meet my New Testament class a bit later today, and will be back to blogging our adventures learning about the NT here in Rome next week.

As a bit of a fond farewell, though, to last semester, here's a picture of me together with the PC students who were here in the fall. One of the other students in the program snapped this at the farewell dinner in December (LtoR: Dr. Dana Dillon, Courtney Burek '13, Patrick Osbourne '13, Kaylee Miller '13, and Annie Bossa '13). Good luck to Courtney, Pat, and Kaylee back in Providence! (Annie continues here in Rome this spring.)